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Printing & Decorating Guidelines

Due to the inherent variables in the screen-printing process and in each production environment, the below specs/resource should serve as a reference only and is not intended as a substitute for performing your own testing.

*Expert Brand will provide fabric samples free of charge for testing purposes only, shipping not included. If you would like fabric samples sent to you, please contact us.

STEP 1: Run a Test

Even if you have experience printing/decorating on synthetic garments (polyester, nylon, spandex etc.), always run a pre-production test for dye migration. Measure the width and the length of the garments before and after printing.

Never switch from cotton to polyester without reconfiguring your press, ink, dryer, and other equipment. 

Adjust the temperature, height, and dwell time of your flash cure unit and dryer. A temperature of 240-250 F for the flash cure unit is recommended and a temperature of 270-300 F for the dryer is recommended. A shorter dwell time is also recommended. You may need to slow down the belt for thicker ink deposits. Under-curing may result in poor wash fastness and can cause dye migration. Monitor printer temperature several times during the course of printing polyester as overheating the fabric may also result in dye migration.

Printing on fine mesh count screens is recommended for our polyester garments, especially for dark colors. This count will give you a nice, thick appearance as well as an ink film strength that will last longer. The use of lower mesh count screens will offset higher viscosity of poly white inks. 

The use of poly ink is recommended. Always apply a good base white made for polyester.

Constantly monitor the temperature. High or sudden surges in temperature may cause the polyester to compress/condense. Consider the thickness of the ink and the print coverage in order to apply the proper temperature and dwell time.

The above information is only to be used as a guideline. It is not binding in any way or form. We do not accept responsibility for its content, application, or processing methods. You must reconfigure your press, inks, dryer, and other equipment in order to successfully print and decorate performance apparel.

We are ABSOLUTELY not responsible after the garments are embellished, decorated, printed, changed or processed from their original form. We do not accept returns of decorated or washed garments under any circumstances. 

To Ensure Cure

  • Full ink film must reach 290 F
  • Multiple passes over 300 F will result in dye migration into the ink film
  • Ovens must be maintained and tested to guarantee full cure
  • Map ovens (to ensure cure)
  • Oven mapping (to ensure cure)
  • Place Crosshairs of the Thermo-Probe into the wet ink
  • Record temperature in 5 sec intervals
  • Mark corresponding dots onto temp/timesheet 
  • Connect the dots to view the “cure curve”


Under-Base Gray

Mesh - 140 Mesh
Squeegee – 80 Durometer
Squeegee Pressure –60 psi
Squeegee Angle –20 degrees
Print Speed – Medium to Medium Fast 
Flood Angle – 0 degrees
Flood Height – Just above stencil 
Flood Speed – Medium to Medium Slow 
Quartz Flash – Set to 3-4 seconds when printing on Cold Pallets

  • Once pallets are warmed up in production run, or if preheated prior to run, the time can be shortened to 2 – 2.5 Seconds. 
  • Flash temperature for this ink is approximately 180F-220F


White 

Mesh - 125 Mesh
Squeegee – 70 Durometer
Squeegee Pressure –60psi
Squeegee Angle –15 to 20 degrees
Print Speed – Medium to Medium Fast 
Flood Angle – Approximately 0 degrees
Flood Height – Just above stencil 
Flood Speed – Medium to Medium Slow 
Quartz Flash Set to 2-3 seconds when printing on Cold Pallets 

  • Once pallets are warmed up in production run, or if preheated prior to run, the time can be shortened to 2 – 2.5 seconds. 
  • Flash temperature for this ink is approximately 180F-220F; over-flash may cause color shift in overprint colors


Over-Printing a Base

Mesh - 180 Mesh
Squeegee Durometer – 70 Durometer
Squeegee Pressure – 50 psi
Squeegee Angle – 20 degrees
Print Speed – Fast 
Flood Angle –  0 degrees
Flood Height – Just above stencil 
Flood Speed – Medium to Medium Slow 
Quartz Flash – Set to 2 seconds when printing on Cold Pallets 

  • Once pallets are warmed up in production run, or if preheated prior to run, the time can be shortened. 
  • Flash temperature for this ink is approximately 180F-220F 
  • This is final flash for tack only and may be shortened to 1 second or less, over-flash may cause color shift.

If color is too light (over-printing a base):

  • Increase squeegee angle
  • Increase print speed
  • Decrease squeegee Shore A durometer
  • Increase  pressure
  • Decrease screen mesh count

If color is too dark (over-printing a base):

  • Decrease squeegee angle
  • Decrease print speed
  • Increase squeegee Shore A durometer
  • Decrease Pressure
  • Increase screen mesh count

Direct to Garment (DTG)

Mesh – 180 to 230 mesh
Squeegee Durometer – 80 Durometer
Squeegee Pressure – 50 psi
Squeegee Angle – 20 degrees
Print Speed – Fast 
Flood Angle –  0 degrees
Flood Height – Just above stencil 
Flood Speed – Medium to Medium Slow

  • Quartz Flash – Not necessary; wet on wet printing is recommended.

If color is too dark, direct to garment:

  • Decrease squeegee angle
  • Decrease print speed
  • Increase squeegee Shore A durometer
  • Decrease Pressure
  • Increase screen mesh count to 230

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